Q: Where can I buy spares for my Babetta?
A: The best source of spares is from www.MZ-B.com the on line shop operating from Budapest, Hungary. For more information on this subject have a look at my data sheet on this link - “Spares & prices”

Q: My moped won't start / won't run / lacks power / dies after a few minutes. Why?
A: Jawa mopeds are very simple devices but like all machines, you need to follow a logical sequence of checks to find a fault.  Most of the handbooks & manuals available from my "manuals" page, have quite comprehensive fault finding guides which guide you through possible solutions to common problems.  If you need further help, there is an step by step fault finding procedure on the Moped Riders Association web site, “moped repair” section.  Follow the link and read the excellent “Fred’s Guide” or for even more detailed information, look at “Dempsey Moped Repair” book on the same site.

Q: I have a 2 speed moped but I can’t tell if the gear change is working properly?     
A: If you're not used to it, the Jawa gear change seems a little weird. From a standing start, you open the throttle fully and off you go in low gear. As speed builds up, as long as the moped is not badly overloaded or climbing a hill, it should automatically change up to high gear. There isn't a sudden change in revs or speed, it is just a very gradual, almost unnoticeable reduction in engine revs but the moped continues accelerating.  The 2 speed mopeds don’t have a top speed any faster than the single speed, they just pull away quicker and handle hills better.  There is a very comprehensive checking procedure for the gear change function in the model 210 workshop manual from my Manuals page.

Q: I need a new electronic ignition unit.
A: The red Transimo unit from the Model 28 & earlier model 207s is unobtainable now.  Both the 4 pin thyristor unit used on later 207s and earlier 210s and the 3 pin version with the built in coil used on later model 225s is still available from www.MZ-B.com You will also find on MZ-B more details about the various electronic units that have been used, including how to convert from one to another.
On the Moped Army web site are details of a home built version of the 4 pin Thyristor unit.  I haven’t tried this yet and so can’t say if it works or not, go to:- http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Jawa_Thyristor

Q: What ratio of oil to petrol should I use in my moped?
A: There is always a big argument amongst two stroke owners about this. Not enough oil and there is a serious risk of bearing & piston damage or seizure, too much oil and the engine will be running weak and it will be difficult to start and liable to plug fouling.  Some people use the much more expensive fully synthetic oil but others, myself included, stick with normal mineral oil.
The models 20 & 28 handbooks & manuals both say 1:30, the model 207 & 210 handbooks say 1:33, but the 210 handbook says 1:50.  A proper, good quality 2 stroke oil should always be used.  Some ratios quoted are for multi grade engine oil but this should be used at a stronger mix (more oil) and only in emergencies. I always use Castrol 2T at about 1:35 mix.

Q: What grade spark plugs should I use?.
A: All the literature suggest the same heat range plugs, ie; Champion L86 or NGK B6HS but depending on your local climate, it might be worth trying a hotter or colder plug.  See this equivalents table.

Q: We have just bought a Jawa moped and are trying to figure out what year it is.
A: There should be a VIN plate on the steering head, behind the headlamp, this should give a year of manufacture. It might just say 196_ or 197_ or 198_   they sometimes didn't stamp the last number of the year.  Otherwise just compare it to pictures on the site to find out which model it is and the notes on my “manuals” page will give an approximate year of manufacture.
VIN structure:-  A Babetta VIN as per ISO Standard will look something like this: TLJ 210 117 JK 123 456
   * T for Europe,
   * L for Czechoslovakia,
   * J for Jawa,
   * 210 for type 210 (might be 213,215,207),
   * 117 is a series no,
   * J stands for the year of build (this would be 1989),
   * K is a factory code standing for Kolarovo (the town in which the factory was),
   * rest is a running number.
Sometimes, especially in Europe you get only the end 6 digits. I think that for US-exports they always used the ISO 17 digit number. Thanks to MZ-B for this VIN information.